![]() ![]() (i used black for obvious reasons) the door was smooth and reflective, but it looked like mud. That's when i noticed the difference, and it was huge. (didn't have enough air volume to get the whole car wet.) i had a small compressor then, so could only paint sections at a time. ![]() cheap $28-32.00/gal) after going around the car a few times i bought a gallon of dupont nason $50.00/gal.Īt any rate, the way things worked out, i ended up with the passenger door painted with tremclad, and the right front fender painted with the nason. I started out using tremclad, which i assume is the equivalent of rustoleum (industrial type enamel. it had lots of parking lot type dents and nice long, fairly flat panels, so the dings really stood out. I had an '81 cordoba that i used as a mule to practice bodywork on quite a few years ago. Some have had very good results while others have had issues. Many have used the same methods originally discussed for rolling the paint but decided to spray it to save time. Most people are using Mineral Spirits to thin this paint. ![]() There is a lot of information along with results in the links below. Why would holding up after buffing be any different if it was sprayed, rolled or brushed? Why would it dull differently if you sprayed it as opposed to rolling or brushing? There might be a difference if you were to thin it as opposed to not thinning but when rolled it is also thinned in most cases. I'm not seeing the difference in application making a difference in the final result. I am just wondering how were the results using a spray gun? How does it hold up after buffing? I "thought" I had read somewhere that it dulls down if you buff it, or leave it out in the sun. I am not talking about paint jobs where guys used brushes on the trucks. my question is, How do you guys like Rustoleum as a paint that has been sprayed? Can it be wet sanded and buffed out later on? What did you use to thin it out with when spraying it? NO. ![]()
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