![]() ![]() The blue side of the connector should face up, and once you’ve fully closed the latch, you shouldn’t be able to see any blue on the cable:ĭon’t worry about the LED light in the original dock: it’s just an indicator and won’t be part of your finished modified dock. Plug the USB-C ribbon cable back into the port on the circuit board, and snap the latch closed. Now you’re almost ready to move the components over to the new dock. Step Three: Install Components in the New Shell Remove those screws, set them aside, and then pull out the USB-C port. You’ll want the smallest screwdriver you have that still includes a good grip for this step. There are two very, very small screws holding the USB-C port in place on the sliding assembly. Try not to let the springs get too close to each other: they’ll tangle themselves easily once they’re loose. This will let you pull off the retention plate, which holds the springs onto the sliding USB-C port. Gently pull the ribbon cable to the side, and remove these four screws. With the nine screws removed, you can pull off the next piece of the plastic shell.įlip the remaining part of the dock around to access the port assembly on the bottom. Six of them are deeply recessed, so you’ll need a short, skinny screwdriver to get them out. To access this component, you’ll need to switch to a standard Philips-head screwdriver and remove these nine different screws. You can leave the power light cable where it is, but you’re going to need to go after the USB-C port at the bottom of the dock. Disconnect that, and then you can then completely remove the circuit board. Now lift the circuit board up gently, and you’ll see a red and black power light cable connected underneath. Pull up the tab holding it in place on the connector, and then pull the cable out. The ribbon cable is on top in this orientation, so grab it first. There are two cables connected to the board: the ribbon cable coming from the USB-C port, and the power cable going to the LED. Step Two: Remove The Circuit Board and USB-C Port The board will be sitting loose in the shell. With these screws removed, you’ll be able to pull out this plastic piece and expose the circuit board of the dock. Remove these eight screws with your tri-wing driver: Flip up the cover on the back to reveal the connection ports. To get started, remove your Switch’s dock from its normal place by the TV and unplug all the hardware from it. A few cups or bowls to hold the loose screws will also be useful. If you’d like a permanent Nintendo-specific addition to your toolkit. Here’s a bigger, better tri-wing screwdriver You might want to use your own small screwdrivers, though, since the cheap ones included with the dock are flimsy and uncomfortable. , and it comes with the custom tri-wing screwdriver you’ll need to open Nintendo’s dock. You’ll need to assemble it yourself, but it’s worth the effort.Īll you need to complete this project is one of these third-party shells and about 20 minutes. This modified Switch dock is about a third the size of the original, and can display and charge the Switch at the same time.īecause it’s using Nintendo’s genuine dock circuit board and USB-C port, the modified dock retains all of the charging, video-out, and USB connections of the original without the bricking danger of some third-party alternatives. This modified layout allows the dock to be about a third of the size of the bulky original for much more convenient travel, while also displaying the Switch’s tablet screen for handy desktop play while it’s charging. They’re really just pieces of plastic, and they’re designed to hold the electronic guts of the official Nintendo dock in a new and much more user-friendly position. , there’s an alternative: replace the plastic shell on the original to make it a lean, mean, fast-docking machine.Īccessory makers have begun selling alternate dock shells. The Switch is great! Nintendo’s dock design is…less great. ![]()
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